Angela Killian

We flew into Managua and drove down to Maderas 1 week ago. Our flight arrived at midnight and the public buses weren’t running so we booked a car service out of necessity. We paid $120 USD (one way) for the privilege which was cheaper than other companies (we used Iskratravel.com). The company representative was waiting for us at the arrivals area holding a sign that read “Angela Cohen” which made me giggle because everyone in Florida assumes I’m Jewish until I spell my last name.

The driver was very kind and assisted us with our bags. Two other locals tried to grab Joe’s surfboard bag to assist. They either wanted a tip or were trying to steal our driver’s business. I was feeling sketched out as I had heard Nicaraguans can be violent. However, the driver was calm and unemotional while shooing the pests away so I followed suit.

The drive was pitch black and I was afraid because I had read that people block off the road and carjack or rob you. Neither happened on that night, but I won’t be driving at night in the future without a local just to be sure. It’s always better to expect the worst when travelling so you will be prepared. Besides, things DO go wrong when travelling sometimes.

The roads became really rough once we got to the beach area- tons of potholes and uneven dirt/gravel surfaces. I’m no stranger to driving under those conditions from living in Thailand, but I was surprised by how primitive the roads were in such a touristy part of town.

The drive took 2 1/2 hours total from Managua to Maderas. The security guard of Casa Maderas was sleeping when we arrived and Joe immediately noticed that he was strapped. He rubbed his eyes, put on his uniform jacket and escorted us to our room.

The room is pretty basic, but a good size. 1 double bed, 1 twin bed, I night stand and an attached bathroom with sink, toilet and shower (no hot water). The room has no air con, only 1 ceiling fan, but the windows open and have screens. The shared porch has a hammock and 1 sitting area with a table and bench.

Casa Maderas offers different accommodation options including a family room and dorm room. We have a double room with private bathroom and it’s $40 USD per night. There are cheaper comparable options in SJDS, but you will be much farther from the good surf spot. http://www.casamaderas.com

There’s a small, but functional pool that is maintained constantly. During the day they play music outside.

There is a restaurant at the Ecolodge called Lucky Monkey. The menu is pretty good, but the food prices are outrageous for such a place. There’s a 10% service charge added to every bill so you don’t have to worry about tipping. We ventured to San Juan del Sur and Playa Maderas and found the prices are just as high there. The portions at Lucky Monkey are decent and the food is tasty although some dishes are a bit salty.

The service is excellent and the food is prepared super fast. I have received my food no more than 10-15 minutes after ordering. Everything is made-to-order and fresh. Also, there are few other food options around. We couldn’t find a proper grocery store in SJDS so we bought canned beans, peanuts and chips at an overpriced minimart.

Basically, the local restaurants know they have you by the balls and that you either eat and pay the price or you starve.

There are a couple of foreign staff who speak English which is very helpful because the Nicaraguan staff barely speak English, although they are very kind and helpful.

Casa Maderas offers complimentary shuttles to Playa Maderas. There is a bumpy dirt road that is walkable if you don’t mind steep hills. The walk only takes about 15 minutes each way. There’s also a shuttle from Casa Maderas to SJDS for $4 – 5 USD per person one way. The ride to SJDS takes about 30 minutes due to the road conditions.

There isn’t much to do around Maderas except surf and relax. Joe and I have been going on long walks to explore the area. Although the vicinity is remote, there are a fair amount of local dwellings around with lots of livestock to look at. We ran into some howler monkeys along one trek. You can’t miss them, they are so loud!

There are a few other beaches around Maderas that are pretty quiet. Playa Marsella and Playa Matilda. There are limited accommodation options, but Playa Matilda has a small, delicious Soda Shop with beer, sodas, water and a medium sized menu. I recommend the tacos de pollo for 160 Cordobas. Although, they were more like flautas or tequitos.

The most popular spot for tourists is Playa Maderas. There is 1 hostel / restaurant and 1 standalone restaurant there. Tacos Locos is the most popular restaurant. There’s always a good vibe there and it’s usually packed with surfers each day by 2pm. The prices are outrageous and the food is just so-so. I had a small salad with grilled chicken and it was $7 USD. Canned sodas are $1.30 USD, beers are $2 USD and cocktails are $6 USD…not outlandish for USA prices, but this isn’t America and your tab adds up quickly if you are at the beach all day. Beware, Tacos Locos will not accept your cash if there are any tears in the bills. Most places accept US dollars or Nicaraguan Cordobas. Most tourist menus advertise prices in USD, but will convert into Cordobas.

I recommend Maderas for relaxation and surfing, but you may want to consider other locations if you are looking for budget friendly options.

Overall recommendations:

1- Bring US Dollars with you to Nicaragua. We arrived late at night and did not see any ATMS at the airport, only currency exchange. The only ATMs are in San Juan del Sur, which is a 30 minute shuttle ride from Maderas. I would plan for a budget of $100 USD per day for food and accommodation for 2 people.

2- Bring all toiletry items you will need including sunscreen. SJDS sells most toiletry items including tampons, but the selection is very limited and the prices are steep. I paid $5 USD for a contact case!

3- Bring a beach towel or sarong. Most budget accommodations do not provide beach towels and will charge you for taking bath towels to the pool or beach.

4- Bring lots of snacks! Again, snacks are for sale in SJDS, but the selection is limited and the prices can be high. Special K protein bars are $2 USD each, but you can find local peanuts for .50 per bag.

5- Bring athletic shoes if you plan on walking. The roads are rough and uneven. You can easily walk the roads in sandals, but athletic shoes will be much more comfortable.

6- Bring a flashlight! The power has gone out several times and it gets pretty dark.

7- Bring a computer / ipad with movies / TV shows. There’s not much to do in the evenings and the sun sets around 5:45pm. It’s always nice to curl up in bed and catch up on your TV shows.

8- Leave your fancy stuff at home. It’s super laid back here and most people walk around in beach attire. Also, you don’t want to stand out or look too flashy as you may attract unwanted attention.

9- Bring a lock. Budget accommodations will have lockers available – use them!

10- Wear bug spray! I haven’t encountered sand fleas, but mosquitos are out and about at night.